Knitter’s questions and errata.

fitzroyLast week I received an email from a  knitter that got me thinking about pattern errors and how important it is to check for errata before you start to knit.

The knitter wrote to tell me she had finished a sweater in my book, Dolce Handknits – simple, sophisticated designs, and had her eye on another. She wanted to make Fitzroy, but was a little intimidated by the charts and wondered if there was a written version of the pattern. There isn’t. Fitzroy is by no means complicated. It’s a worsted-weight cardigan with lace panels and though I’m not a big fan of charts myself, they just made sense for Fitzroy.

I thought a little encouragement was in order. I offered up some basic chart explanation and a few tips that always made working from charts easier for me. Just simple things, like which row, RS or WS, the chart started with and from which direction to work each row. I suggested making separate, enlarged copies of each chart and using a ruler to help hold your place. And then, luckily, it dawned on me that if she was working from the book and not an older leaflet version of the pattern, there were some small, but critical errors introduced into the charts when the book was published. I included a link to the corrected charts.

I was so pleased when the knitter wrote back to thank me for the encouragement and to say she was going to give Fitzroy and charts a go. But all I could think was what a nightmare it could have been for her if I hadn’t remembered the corrected charts.

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7 Responses to Knitter’s questions and errata.

  1. Kathy says:

    I am knitting a shawl number 1102, Magnolia. Love the pattern but am struggling to get row 24 to work out. I have 81 stitches between the 6 stitches for border and can not seem to get the end to work. I have 5 stitches remaining rather than 3. Has anyone else had this problem?

    • kim says:

      Hi Kathy, Sounds like you’re doing just fine. Note that the instructions tell you to “end the last repeat K3” which is different than say Row 14 which tells you to work “to last 3 sts, K3”. In the first instance you will work the final repeat yo, k2tog, k3 (instead of yo, k2tog, k5). In the second instance you will work the yo, k2tog, k5 until the end and then have an additional 3 sts left to work and you will knit them. I hope that helps.

  2. Fran Tiger says:

    Are there any corrections or changes to the Sausalito sweater pattern? The sleeve seems a little large in circumference.

    • kim says:

      There are some notes on how to properly execute the stitch pattern here, but no errors in the pattern instructions. The sleeves though, are very wide. Sausalito has a modified drop shoulder so if you prefer a slimmer sleeve it’s a simple matter to make that change.

  3. Nicola Eustace says:

    I have your book Dolce Hand Knits, simple sophisticed designs and the pattern for Sedona appears to have a stitch count error. When placing markers for the back you have to mark the center 30 stitches leaving 26 for each shoulder section. For the front 82 stitches it says Mark and BO the center 18 stitches leaving 26 for each shoulder section which adds up to 70. Should the front and back be the same? If so it should read 30 not 18 center stitches… I don’t know how I should proceed. Also in reference to you posting re the Fitzroy pattern having errors in the charts in the book could I also have the corrections as I plan to do this knit next. Thanks Nicola

    • kim says:

      Hi Nicola,
      If you take a look at the schematic you’ll see that the front neck shaping is quite a bit different from the back neck shaping. But yes, you have found an error in the instructions which sadly has happened all too often in the book. Here is the correct information from the original leaflet pattern. My apologies. You’ll find the corrected charts for Fitzroy here All correction are listed on the same document and it’s a bit confusing until you notice that the pattern names are printed at the bottom of each page. Scroll down for the Fitzroy charts. The errors are in the number of 7-stitch repeats worked on the right and left fronts.

      Front Neck Shaping
      On next RS row, work to first marker, join
      new yarn and BO off center 18 (20, 22,
      24) sts for front neck, cont in patt to
      end. Work both sides of neck at the same
      time with separate balls of yarn. Next
      row (WS), work in patt across first side of
      neck, beg opp neck edge BO 2 sts, cont in
      patt to end. Next row (RS), work in patt
      across first side of neck, beg opp neck edge
      BO 2 sts, cont in patt to end. Work 1 row
      even. On next row (RS), work to 3 sts before
      first neck edge, k2tog, k1, then beg opp neck
      edge k1, ssk, work in patt to end. Rep this dec
      row every 2nd row 4 times, then every 4th
      row 2 times and then every 6th row 1 time
      • 22 (25, 28, 31) sts each side. Cont
      even in patt as set until front meas same
      as back ending with the same WS patt
      row as back. BO all sts in patt.

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